Tuesday, May 31, 2016

Tips for Structuring Great Vlog Content

Well known video bloggers, such as Casey Neistat and the likes, have raised the vlogging standards in recent years. How they manage to post captivating content so regularly is astounding. Many try to emulate their successes, and as a result, YouTube is crammed full of filmmakers trying to be the next viral vlogging sensation. These vlogs vary in content, style, and quality, and while there is a niche space for almost anything these days, some people are “nailing it,” and others aren’t.

[ Read More ]


Fstoppers

If you are interested in Photography, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1speZpM

Monday, May 30, 2016

To St. Helens and Back: Olympus TG-Tracker Shooting Experience

Olympus has been in the rugged camera business for a very long time, with its first model, the Stylus 720SW, released way back in 2006. Ten years later the company has made the leap to action cams. 

The TG-Tracker is a camcorder-shaped device that can capture 4K/30p and 1080/60p video as well as timelapses. The F2 lens has a whopping 204° field-of-view ‘on land’ and 94 degrees when you take it diving with its included underwater lens protector. It features a 7.2MP, 1/2.3″ BSI CMOS sensor paired with the company’s latest TruePic VII processor. (If 7.2 Megapixels sounds a bit low for 4K, you’re right – the camera has to interpolate in order to produce 4K as well as 8MP stills.)

The TG-Tracker captures every data point you could possibly want from an action cam.

Design-wise, there are two things that stand out. First is the camera’s flip-out (but non-articulating) 1.5″ LCD, which is mainly used for menu navigation. Second is what Olympus calls a built-in ‘headlight,’ capable of projecting up to 60 lumens of light.

What really makes the TG-Tracker unique, as its name implies, is tracking. It records location, altitude or water depth, temperature, orientation, and acceleration. All of this data is shown on graphs in the app, allowing you to see the pictures you took at a certain altitude or in a specific area of the map.

There are two other neat tricks the camera can do thanks to all these sensors. First, if the accelerometer detects a sudden change in equilibrium, it will put a chapter marker in your videos. Also, the TG-Tracker can detect when the camera goes underwater and switch the switch to the appropriate white balance setting.

All of this metadata is viewable in the Olympus Image Track app, which is where you can preview your photos and videos and then transfer them to your mobile device (save for 4K video)

To see how the TG-Tracker functions in the real world, we sent it to Mount St. Helens, an 8363 foot-tall stratovolcano most famous for its major eruption in 1980. But before we get into that, let’s take a look at the design and what it’s like to use this action camera.

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

If you are interested in Camera Tips, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1WUCALv

Photography Tips for Wall Art

Almost every photographer has had the urge to mount and display his or her photos as wall art, either at home or maybe in the office at work. At one time or another—we’ve nearly all done it—we took one of our ‘best shots’, had an enlargement made, and framed it. We brought it home or to the office and hung it on display. Then something depressing happened; the picture became unsatisfying, then boring, and finally, wall clutter. What went wrong?!

wall art photography

“Tuscan harvest” captured by PictureSocial member David Hobcote

Perhaps a favorite shot beguiled us and we overlooked a basic fact: many good photo’s are better suited to a book or a magazine. They’re simply not appropriate for hanging upon a wall. Sometimes pictures with strong contrasts and vibrant colors can look very pleasing at first, then start to grate on us after a while if displayed as wall art.

So, now we are a little sadder but what we really want is to become somewhat wiser. We realize that what we need are photo’s that can be displayed as prints and stand the test of time, right? Definitely. Prints with lasting interest! So, how do we go about successfully shooting for that specific goal? Well, there isn’t any simple sure-fire method. But there are a few basic things to keep in mind which can definitely help in making and displaying wall art prints with lasting interest.

What lasts?

If you do a bit of looking around in your local decorative art & poster galleries, and ask a few discreet questions of the sales staff as to which kinds of photos are most in demand for home decor, you’ll likely discover, as I did, the following:

  • They are usually landscapes which have a definite mood
  • They are usually foreground or middle ground scenes, not panoramic vistas
  • The colors in them are usually muted, or pastels
  • They are often shots with mist and fog in them
  • They are usually printed on a ‘luster’ (not glossy) print surface

You can readily see that most of these factors will usually add up to a ‘painterly’ looking print. They will provide subtle pastel colors. Since such pictures already have a proven track record as successful (i.e., enduring!) wall art, why not use the above info as a set of guidelines for shooting wall art photos of lasting appeal?

If you want to display some of your photos as prints on an office wall, here’s the scoop on ‘commercial & business area’ photo decor that wears well:

  • They are mostly close-ups of flowers, leaves, ferns, etc., with dew or rain drops on them…
  • Or else, they are frequently natural abstract or pattern shots
ice landscape

“Cold Blue Ice” captured by PictureSocial member Evar Guomundsson

  • These pictures often feature strong color and a near-graphic look
  • These kinds of prints are best made on glossy or semi-glossy print materials

These type of prints yield brighter colors and stronger contrast for a bolder look. Here too, you may want to make use of marketing info as practical guidelines for your own wall display shooting.

Find it

Rather than leaving things to chance, plan your lasting decor landscapes and close-ups. First of all, search out some local places that are unspoiled and natural, with few signs of human presence or activity. Check out your nearby parks, conservation areas, or wildlife refuges.

Scope it

Scout these prospective locations, looking for areas and things with appealing color, pools and ponds for reflections, running water for abstractions, etc. When you find something of interest move around it in a circle and note the various possible compositions. Be especially aware of those compositions that call for either a north- or south-facing camera position. (They’ll provide maximum side-light for modelling and texture, and polarizing for saturated color.) And while you’re at it, note whether the east and west sides of such subjects are open to admit either direct early morning or late afternoon sunlight for the warm, glowing light at these times.

A number of photo apps provide information as to when and where on the horizon the sun will rise or set in your area. Same for the full moon. Taking note of these things as well as what’s around you while scouting will help you foresee good photo opportunities well in advance.

Check it

Check the local weather maps for what’s upcoming in your area. Do it frequently. Remember, bad weather is good photo weather, especially during the clearing-up hours after a storm; it’s great for injecting mood into your images! By the way, online weather sources will also give you precise local sunrise and sunset times.

wall photo

“Twilight on the Jetty”captured by PictureSocial member Beth

For close-ups with dew, just keep in mind that a hot sultry day that ends with a cool and clearing evening usually guarantees heavy dew conditions the next morning.

Go for it

Start out well before sunrise and get on location early. Set up and shoot at first light, early light, etc. If you’re shooting a landscape that includes sky, be alert for clear strips of sky at the horizon with clouds immediately above them. This situation will often yield terrific cloud effects! Alternatively, start out well before sunset and be on-site to shoot through sundown and twilight. At either time it may be possible to shoot both landscapes and close-ups if circumstances allow.

Tools & Tips

By all means take your tripod. Also a cable release, perhaps a polarizer, or a neutral density grad filter. Use either a low ISO setting or else slow speed transparency film. And, perhaps most important of all, take along a resolve to go back to your favorite spots again and again. And again! When you know a place like the back of your hand, and you’re frequently there, you’ll be surprised at the photo ‘breaks’ that come your way!

Your personal ‘seeing’ and camera skills will undoubtedly improve as you persist at shooting both frequently and regularly. You should have no difficulty acquiring a considerable number of shots well suited for wall art.

Mounting & Display

Once you have on hand some images you feel will keep their appeal as wall decor in the long term, select one or two and make a 5 x 7 or a 8 x 10 print of it and tack it up somewhere that you’ll see it frequently. Give it a couple of weeks and see how well it keeps its appeal. If it passes the test then get a larger display print made, tastefully mounted and display it appropriately.

To assist you in these regards, why not turn to one of the many reliable guides available on the subject such as, for example:

  • Kodak Publication no. 0-22, Cat. 104 8479, PHOTO DECOR – A Guide to the Enjoyment of Photographic Art.
  • A Guide to the Enhancement & Presentation of Photographs, by Otha C. Spencer (Prentice-Hall, NJ 07632)

Such publications will provide numerous fine visual examples, as well as explanation of useful guidelines, tips, and techniques, and also offer helpful advice on many related topics such as print location, fading, lighting, etc.

abstract wall art

“Flamborough Dusk” captured by PictureSocial member Tony Taffinder

The presentation info in such publications, together with the above shooting guidelines, will put you well on your way toward appropriate, enduring, wall art with long-term appeal, instead of disappointing and depressing wall clutter.

About the Author:
John Maxymuik authored this article for those photographers who want large prints of their work for display, either in a residential or business setting, but they want the results to have enduring appeal, instead of soon turning into disappointing wall clutter. To see examples of photography suitable for wall display go to his fine art photography website at ambienceimages dot net.

Go to full article: Photography Tips for Wall Art

What are your thoughts on this article? Join the discussion on Facebook

Article from: PictureCorrect

PictureCorrect

If you are interested in Photography, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1UnUjaw

Saturday, May 28, 2016

Huge Discounts on Fuji Cameras and Lenses

While it was pretty sad to see Nikon recall its last round of rebates due to earthquakes in Japan, other manufacturers like Fuji are continuing to push pretty aggressive sales on both cameras and lenses to lure in more customers and increase their market share. I am a big fan of the Fuji X system (I own the Fuji X-T1 and a couple of X-series lenses – see my detailed Fuji X-T1 review), so when I saw all the available deals on lenses and cameras, I wanted to let our readers know about these deals. Although these deals are supposed to last until the end of June, if you have plans to purchase Fuji gear, I would suggest doing it sooner than later, since many of the lenses are already out of stock and it might take a while for your order to arrive if it is backed up too deeply in the order queue.

Here are all the best Fuji X-series camera deals:

Please keep in mind that the above sale for the X-T1 + Free VG-XT1 Vertical Grip are only good while supplies last. Once stock is gone, you will only get the $ 300 discount and some accessories. These are all excellent deals and if you have been thinking about investing into the Fuji X system, now seems to be a very good time to do so. The Fuji X-T1 will soon be replaced by the X-T2, but it will most likely sell at the MSRP of $ 1,300 when introduced and such a heavy discount won’t be offered for a while. If you don’t want to drop $ 1K towards a Fuji camera, the Fuji X-T10 is a steal at $ 600 (see my detailed review of Fuji X-T10).

And here are all the Fuji X-series lens deals:

The above discounts are very significant and the selection of lenses is outstanding. Personally, given the aggressive discounts, I would jump on the following lenses for my needs: XF 14mm f/2.8, XF 16mm f/1.4, XF 23mm f/1.4, XF 35mm f/2, XF 56mm f/1.2 and XF 10-24mm f/4. All other lenses are also superb, but these are the ones I really love shooting with. One lens in the list that falls into the no-brainer category is the XF 35mm f/2 – at $ 300, this is a wonderful lens. If I were starting out with the Fuji X system, I would get the Fuji X-T10 along with the XF 35mm f/2 first.

The post Huge Discounts on Fuji Cameras and Lenses appeared first on Photography Life.

Photography Life



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1qRCCpy

‘Know This’ – An Artist’s Tribute to Travel

The ultimate movement; adventure, experience, and escape rolled into one single word. Travel. The word itself, a title to encompass all of life’s passion and emotion in transit. Life is frustrating, funny, and challenging; an endless series of events in random order, asking us to interpret meaning and understanding. Travel allows us to put the randomness into perspective, the daily events elaborated as just blessings from the road that eventually tally up to what amounts to be a life fully lived. Travel Photographer Christian Sorensen Hansen does an amazing job capturing highlights from six years on the road, with the camera he always has with him: his phone. His short movie, “Know This,” will stir the fire of escape from deep inside and have you planning your next trip in no time.

[ Read More ]


Fstoppers

If you are interested in Camera Tips, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1UjL3V7

Water Droplet Photography Tips

Do you love taking pictures? If so, this is a new and exciting way to take awesome photos that will have your friends and family talking! The best part is that you can do this at any time of year or time of day, and you don’t have to leave your home to do it. I will show you how to photograph water droplets for some downright amazing images!

water droplet photography

Photo captured by PictureSocial member Jeff Carson

Start by mounting your camera on a tripod in front of your setup.

Using your viewfinder, make sure you background color is reflecting strongly off the water. Try using a piece of magazine as a target to get your camera ready for focus. I stick with using an aperture of f/4 to f/4.5 to make sure the depth of field is still keeping the drop sharp while blurring the background.

Make sure your setup is well-lit with flash units, then dim the room lights.

Set a fast shutter speed.

I have found that an eye dropper works best for making a drip. Squeeze out a drop, and start by manually flashing. Then continue till you achieve your desired result! Your hardest task is going to be timing!

Your best method is going to be trial and error. It does take some practice. After about a dozen shots, you will start getting in sync with your camera and your amazing pics will be proof!

Another method is to use a sound-activated or motion-detecting device that will automatically make your flash units trigger.

how to photograph water droplets

“Droplet” captured by PictureSocial member vjekoslav antic

Creating your Shape

  1. Crown shapes. You need to fill the receptacle with liquid to about 1 centimeter or less.
  2. Column shape. Your are going to need to add a tad more liquid. Plain water works best, so no need to waste your time trying anything else. It’s cost effective and reflective!

Backgrounds

Have fun with this. There are several different ways you could go:

  1. Go all black with a beautiful wine glass as your receptacle.
  2. Use bright, fun colors underneath your container; it creates a fun, upbeat effect!
  3. Try placing some colorful stones in the bottom of the dish.
  4. Wrapping paper works great. Make sure your receptacle is a contrasting color to really make it pop out at you.

At about 120 degrees, water drops will reflect a given area. Your background doesn’t have to be huge since it is only going to be sitting about 3 inches behind the receptacle.

water drop photo

Photo captured by PictureSocial member Jeff Carson

I hope you now have learned how to photograph water droplets and are well on your way to making stunning photos to show to your family and friends!

About the Author
This article was written by Brooks Carver from antiquecuckooclocks dot net.

Go to full article: Water Droplet Photography Tips

What are your thoughts on this article? Join the discussion on Facebook

Article from: PictureCorrect

PictureCorrect

If you are interested in Digital Camera, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/25ofkan

Thursday, May 26, 2016

Broncolor launches range of softbox edge masks for rim light effect

Swiss lighting brand broncolor has announced a range of diffuser panels for its softboxes that help to create a rim light effect when the subject is positioned in front of the softbox. The Edge Masks feature a large black panel in the center of the diffuser that prevents light from passing, but leaves strips all the way around the panel for the flash to pass through. The idea is that people posed in front of the panel will appear on a black background but highlighted with a rim of light all around them.

The panels are designed to replace the usual white diffuser of the softbox, which is removed when the Edge Mask is in place. The effect is relatively easy to achieve using any softbox and a panel of black material, but these are a bit more convenient and look more professional.

The company has also launched a 110cm parabolic umbrella that can be used to vary the focus of the reflected light. The umbrella has a particularly long arm that allows the light source to be placed at a range of distances from the reflective material.

The Edge Masks come in a range of sizes and are available now, as is the Focus 110 umbrella. The Edge Masks are priced from £42/$ 54 to £84/$ 113, while the umbrella costs £150/$ 210.

For more information visit the broncolor website.


Press release:

New Light Shaping Tools – Edge Masks & Focus 110

Hot on the heels of the new Siros L battery powered studio monobloc, broncolor have also released two brand new lights shaping tools – the Edge Mask diffuser and Focus 110 umbrella.

Edge Masks
Using the broncolor range of softboxes just became even more creative and flexible. The new Edge Mask helps turn the rectangular sizes of the softboxes in to a rim light, allowing for subjects to be photographed in-front of and against the softbox, with the light wrapping around the subject from behind. This is a popular technique previously only created by flagging off the softbox with a board, but the Edge Mask provides a professional, easy and uniform method for creating the effect. Simply attach the Edge Mask to your existing softbox as you would an external diffuser.

Focus 110
The new parabolic Focus 110 umbrella (110cm diameter) provides a quick an easy way of producing a focusable parabolic light effect. Simply pop it up and use the lamp heads umbrella holder to slide and focus the shaper.

Pricing and availability
The new Edge Masks and Focus 110 are ready and available to ship now!

33.612.00 – Edge Mask for Softbox 35 x 60 – £35 ex. VAT
33.613.00 – Edge Mask for Softbox 60 x 100 – £40 ex. VAT
33.614.00 – Edge Mask for Softbox 90 x 120 – £50 ex. VAT
33.615.00 – Edge Mask for Softbox 120 x 180 – £70 ex. VAT

33.576.00 – Focus 110 – £125 + VAT

Articles: Digital Photography Review (dpreview.com)

If you are interested in Camera Tips, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1NPByhe

Beginner’s Guide to Better Landscape Photography: Infographic

If you’re new to photography, you most likely get a little confused when it comes to keeping all the jargon, camera settings, and composition rules straight. We’ve all been there. And those of us who are visual learners will appreciate this helpful landscape photography infographic, which clearly illustrates all the basics:

better-landscape-photography-infographic

The Novice’s Guide to Better Landscape Photography (Via CustomMade. Click to see full size.)

This easy-to-understand resource sets us straight on choosing aperture settings, deciding on a focal point, and composing interesting landscape images. Print it out and hang it on your wall for a visual reminder that will improve your photography in no time.

Go to full article: Beginner’s Guide to Better Landscape Photography: Infographic

What are your thoughts on this article? Join the discussion on Facebook

Article from: PictureCorrect

PictureCorrect

If you are interested in SLR Camera, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/25j9MOp

Wednesday, May 25, 2016

Photoshop Layers and Layer Masking for Beginners

Arguably the most versatile adjustments in Photoshop are the layering and masking tools. Together, layers and masks make up a large portion of the work most photographers do in Photoshop, both for subtle and complex edits. However, if you are just beginning to work in Photoshop, these two irreplaceable tools may not be completely intuitive. In this article, I will cover some basic tips and techniques for using layers and layer masking in Photoshop – laying the groundwork for far more advanced post-processing adjustments.

Note: This article is specifically written with Photoshop in mind, but nearly all photography programs that use masks (such as GIMP, among others) work in similar ways. I use Photoshop CS6, but all of this information applies to any modern version of Photoshop as well, including Photoshop CC.

1) Introducing Layers

In order to visualize layers in Photoshop, it helps to think of a physical, paper print. If you have several prints, you can stack – or layer – them on top of each other easily. Layering in Photoshop works the same way, although your stack is made of digital images rather than physical prints.

Both in print and in Photoshop, the first rule of layering is simple: the layer on top is the one that’s visible. In other words, if I stack a red print on top of a blue print, I’m only going to see a red print. The same is true with the layers in Photoshop (the layer tab is highlighted in red):

Layers-and-masking-1

The versatility of digital layers, though, is that you can change their strength using the opacity option in Photoshop. The lower the opacity, the more you can “see through” the top layer. So, as I reduce the opacity from 100% to 0%, this photo becomes progressively more and more blue. At 50% opacity, for example, the image is purple, halfway between red and blue:

Layers-and-masking-2

Opacity is incredibly useful for any work in Photoshop, since it lets you change the strength of your adjustments. However, there are more variables at play than appear at first glance.

2) Putting Layers into Practice

Every time that I open Photoshop, my first step is to duplicate the background layer – the one that has the lock symbol next to it – with the shortcut Control + J (Command + J on a Mac). Why do I do this?

The main reason is simply because I want to avoid making changes that I can’t undo easily. For example, if I make ten edits to a single layer, I can’t delete the first without undoing all the others. However, if each edit is its own layer, it is easy to delete the one I don’t like (or simply reduce its opacity).

Adobe knows all this, and that’s why they put a “lock” on the background layer in the first place. This lock makes it impossible to do certain edits to the background layer, since there would be no way to undo them selectively. If you want to unlock this layer, it’s very easy – just double click, then hit “enter.” However, it’s a good safeguard that reminds you to use layers whenever you can.

Another important part about layers is the ability to change their names. This might not matter when you only have two layers – red and blue – but it is crucial if you have dozens, or even hundreds of layers. The title “Background Copy 14” doesn’t tell me anything, but “Sharpening Layer” does. To rename a layer, just double click on the layer’s current title and type the new name.

Lastly, the opacity tool is far from the only way to adjust a layer’s transparency. Instead, Photoshop has another valuable tool up its sleeve: the power of layer masking

3) Layer Masking

At its simplest, layer masking gives you extreme flexibility in deciding which portions of a layer are important or not. It’s easier to show an example than to describe one, so I’ll include a screenshot of a layer mask in action. Here, I “masked out” part of the red layer, revealing the blue layer below:

Layers-and-masking-3

It’s clear that this is a dramatic change, and it proves that masking is a powerful tool. Using this technique, I can make selective edits to individual portions of the photo. Do I want to brighten a person’s face, but leave the rest of the photo unchanged? No problem – layer masking does the job. So, how does it work?

Layer masking isn’t that difficult, but it helps to follow along while you use it. The first step is to click on the layer where you want a mask. Then, create a mask by clicking on the “Add Layer Mask” tool.

Layers-and-masking-4

In the world of Photoshop, a mask does absolutely nothing if it is completely white, which is how it appears at first:

Layers-and-masking-4-1

When a mask is perfectly black, the opposite is true; a black mask is the equivalent of using 0% opacity, resulting in a transparent layer. For example, notice the black line painted on the mask in this section’s first screenshot; that line corresponds to the blue that shows through the top layer!

You aren’t confined just to painting white and black when you work on a mask; in fact, you can paint in any shade of gray. A dark shade of gray leads to a nearly-transparent layer, while a light shade of gray only shows a faint impression of the layers below. As you might expect, a 50% gray mask corresponds to a 50% level of opacity.

However, masking is much more flexible than the opacity tool, since it lets you adjust specific parts of the layer, rather than the entire layer. As I mentioned earlier, a mask lets you brighten just a small portion of the photo, such as someone’s face, which would be impossible with the opacity slider.

Finally, note that it is impossible to paint any colors other than white, gray, and black onto a mask. This makes sense, since whatever you do to a mask doesn’t directly appear in a photo; it simply tells Photoshop which portions of a layer to reduce in opacity.

4) Masking on Adjustment Layers

The sections above cover most of the basics of layers and layer masking. However, there is one other important aspect to cover: adjustment layers.

If you want to make color, contrast, brightness, or many other changes in Photoshop, adjustment layers are one of the quickest tools at your disposal. The process is quite easy. First, click on the adjustment layer tab at the bottom of your Photoshop window:

Layers-and-masking-5

Say, for example, that we want to increase the brightness of the sky in this photograph. Let’s add a brightness adjustment layer:

Layers-and-masking-6

Notice something interesting? The brightness adjustment layer is already a white mask. Notice what happens when you paint black on portions of it:

Layers-and-masking-7

Now, the sky has gotten much brighter, but the black part of the mask eliminates all effects on the ground and water. They stay just as dark as they would without any adjustment at all. That’s the power of layer masks!

(Note that I mentioned earlier that I always duplicate the background layer upon import. This is usually true, but in this particular case there was no need; the adjustment layer is already separate from the background, so I can delete it whenever I want.)

5) Conclusions

This article is only the briefest of introductions into layers and masking. The more time you spend in Photoshop, the more you will learn about masking techniques, tips, and tricks. However, a comprehensive article on masking would be the length of a book, and it still wouldn’t cover everything there is to know. The best way to learn about advanced masking techniques is to practice in Photoshop yourself, then look up new strategies online if your old methods are insufficient.

The post Photoshop Layers and Layer Masking for Beginners appeared first on Photography Life.

Photography Life

If you are interested in Photography, visit here.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1qJ9scg

23 Street Photography Tips For Your Next Photo Walk

The Cooperative of Photography​ (COOPH) teamed up with Switzerland-based Street Photographer Thomas Leuthard as he hits the streets of Salzburg to demonstrate some of the techniques he uses to be a true ninja street photographer. Leuthard arms himself with a discreet Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II mirrorless camera to capture the essence of everyday life as it happens on public streets.

[ Read More ]


Fstoppers

If you are interested in SLR Camera, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1WhO2Rq

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

Levitation Photography: Techniques for Defying Gravity

Levitation is one of the most intriguing subjects in trick photography; it has inspired millions of people since its invention in the mid-19th century. The ability to harness the creative aspects of the photographer and combine it with real-life images has resulted in a combined revolution of art and science.

levitation photo

photo by Photo Vanova

One of the simplest, yet most overwhelming and inspiring feelings is found in the types of photographs where the subject seems to levitate above the ground. Levitation photography is still one of the most eye-catching and spectacular types of photographic subjects. However, despite the seemingly complex nature of these photographs, many of them are simple to achieve, either all in-camera, or with the use of technology such as Photoshop or an application on your phone.

For most amateur or aspiring photographers, the ability to improve picture-taking skills is actually easier than we might think. This article shows you how to incorporate this type of special effect into your repertoire. The following techniques will help you accomplish levitation photography:

Jumping Technique

The most spectacular effects are the simplest of all to photograph. The subject simply jumps in place, above the ground, and then the photographer snaps the picture. There are no post-production or editing effects required, since everything takes place inside the camera. However, it does take more than just simple jumping to achieve the effect.

Stationary objects should also be included. In other words, the levitation effect is more pronounced when we see objects that are normally stationary in the frame of the picture, such as a house, vehicle, furniture, or any type of stationary object in a levitated position.

levitation photography

photo by Curtis MacNewton

The human subject must not look like he or she is jumping. You can achieve this stationary position with a calm expression on the face, slight bending of the knees so that the feet appear to be floating effortlessly off the ground, and some kind of rigidity in the clothing that does not give away the subject’s motion.

If your subject has long hair, it’s important to press the shutter button during the middle of a jump and not in the final phase while the subject is descending with their hair appearing to be hanging from the sky. You can also use hair styling product to minimize hair movement to make the shoot easier.

The shutter speed on your camera must be set fast enough so that there is no motion blur. You can hire a skilled model, particularly a dancer or athlete who is accustomed to jumping, to create a more realistic effect.

Double Frame Technique

The next type of levitation trick is using objects, for example stools and ladders, to support the subject. After this, you mask out the subject in post-production editing with the use of photo editing software (e.g. Adobe Photoshop). This is perhaps the most common type of levitation photography.

levitating over lake

photo by Lucy Maude Ellis

This type of levitation photography can achieve some spectacular effects if done correctly. You should ensure that objects used to support the subject are easy to remove in post-production editing. To perform the post-production editing, you will require double frames (i.e. shoot two images for post-processing).

Double Frame Levitation Photography Tips
  • Use a sturdy tripod to hold your camera, and place the tripod at a fixed position for the entire shoot.
  • Use manual mode on your camera to achieve your desired lighting exposure, and maintain the same setting for your entire shoot.
  • Use manual focus-mode on the camera lens to achieve the desired focus point on your subject, and maintain the same focus point for your entire shoot.
  • Consider using a remote shutter release or set your camera on self-timer mode if you are modeling for your own shoot.
  • While shooting multiple frames, the first image should consist of only the background without the subject and supporting object. The second image should consist of the exact same background but with your subject and the required supporting object.
  • After capturing the images, you will need to use Photoshop or other editing software to align the two images. You can then easily remove the supporting object by using the masking technique.
levitation setup

photo by Louish Pixel

In essence, there needs to be a significant color difference between the supporting objects and the subject itself. This makes it easier to isolate and remove the supporting object while editing.

Tips for More Realistic Levitation Photography

  • Try to include or create shadows of your levitating subject. You should shoot the picture under soft lighting to achieve soft shadows, as it will make your work easier during post-production editing. When necessary, you can clone out the shadow of the supporting object and add in artificial shadows using the burn tool in Adobe Photoshop.
  • The more complex the background, the more believable the levitation. Using a simple, solid color background makes it very easy to achieve levitation effects. However, the more complex and natural the background, the more believable the image. Removing and replacing the support structure is more difficult to achieve.
levitation photographers

photo by Louish Pixel

If you apply the above tips and tricks, you will definitely add wings to your existing portfolio. Expert levitation photography draws an impressed audience at a quicker rate.

About the Author:
Swee Shiong Chong writes for SG East Photo, a photography blog on techniques and equipment that is used in creating all types of photography from around the world.

Go to full article: Levitation Photography: Techniques for Defying Gravity

What are your thoughts on this article? Join the discussion on Facebook

Article from: PictureCorrect

PictureCorrect

If you are interested in SLR Camera, check it out here for more details.



from SLR Camera http://ift.tt/1TIU8rO